Fashion Week in Toronto
LG Fashion Week SS’12: Day 5

Micalla’s jewelry collection pays tribute to the imperial cat that reigns in every woman’s spirit, (although all the cat-themed togs I saw this week were on men – t-shirts emblazoned everything from evil cats to cat-cosmonauts). Sponsored by Kusmi Tea, the collection is massively luxurious – silver discs cascade down collar bones, Swarovski crystals are woven into glittering mesh or colossal chokers. I’m happy to report that a “coral” necklace is in fact made of coloured pearls – your reefs are safe with Micalla. Unfortunately, the work (like the tea!) is only available in Quebec. The Swarovski boutique on Bloor should get on that. Today.

Inspired by the innovative architecture and culture of Brazil’s favelas – where she worked as a nurse, then teaching crafts to children, Baby Steinberg continues to turn cast-offs into couture. Fabric remnants are woven like rag-rugs or piece-worked into intricate gowns – some pieces took a hundred hours to make! Choryin Choi’s imagination plays with what we all know Sigourney Weaver was thinking – “Louboutin could make some gorgeous shoes out of that creature”. Alien skin print leggings are paired with sci-fi white and plastic, and accessorized with mutated monster handbags, but don’t worry ET – your flesh isn’t on our wish list (this year).

Dixon’s show is fabulous as usual (see previous review), and the entire week ends with Denis Gagnon’s limitless genius (above). Rabbit soft silks move with a feral quality, and sleeveless jumper shorts are updated, sexy and belted at the bust. Florals take a walk on the wild side (think Laura Ashley meets Grindhouse) in a garden of gorgeous black chintz, complete with matching patent leather box clutches.

All in all it was an exhausting, but exhilarating week. Emerging designers to keep an eye out for include Bonnie Yam, Naanafya of Garde d’Avante, Louie Manzo, and Kallvis Gents. Cheers to everyone (especially the designers) for a fabulous 25th season!

by Liza Zawadzka

photo ‘Jasper Garvida’ by Stan Olkha

In it’s fifth year,  [FAT] celebrates Toronto’s alternative art and fashion scene in a lavish celebration of style. With over 200 participants and 50 designers, FAT has become one of North America’s premier fashion events, yet director Vanja Vasic maintains her integrity and committment to a divergent vision.

Set in a film studio in Liberty Village, the venue is reminiscent of a Sonic Youth concert in a New York underpass circa 1984.  The sprawling industrial site is turned into a hedonistic labrynth of installation, video, performance and photography.  True to Toronto’s reputation as an opera nation, the week kicks off with a contemporary ballet accompanied by an aria that would make Maria Callas shiver with envy. As it happens the work was choreographed by none other than styling bad boy, Marq Frerichs, who turns out to be a trendsetter in dance as much as in fashion.  Who knew?

As I make my way through the various installations in the back rooms, I come across a fantasy set complete with a scantily clad lad in a sailor outfit that looks like it’s seen the better days of a Rotweiller attack massaging another man.  The scene would make Quentin Crisp look butch, and I immediately protest – what about me and my heterosexual rights to a great massage?  Quicker  than I can bat a fake eyelash, two gay gentlemen have discreetly disrobed me and I find myself on the table with every knotted muscle soothed and kneaded. I descend into heavenly bliss…… only to open my eyes to the sound of the clicks and whirs of cameras which remind me I have become part of the performance.  Oh well, the sacrifices we make for art.

Much relaxed and with my bones crunched back into their proper place, I enjoy another round of exceptional style.  Filipino-Canadian Jasper Garvida, recently crowned winner of Project Catwalk, showed an exceptional collection of sheared beaver coats in Art Deco malachite green and black.  True to [FAT] philosophy, the runway glitters with designers sharpening the cutting edge of style while maintaining aesthetic and creative integrity. The models are reflective of the gorgeous diversity of our city – a welcome break from the aenemic coathangers that plague LG Fashion Week.  The crowd is packed to the walls, and the vibe is celebratory, relaxed and most important – fabulously fun.

Square Root of Two – Netherlands

Sheridan College Textile Studio

Part of the driving force: (l)  Vessna Perunovich, Wesley Badanjak and Vanja Vasic

Carolee from Faze magazine & Liza in Obama-wear from Peach Beserk

Fashion Cares, an event to raise money for HIV/AIDS research, awareness and patient care takes a horrific turn this Halloween, transmorgified into Fashion SCares. Leave it to the fashion and gay communities to transform the sterile Toronto Convention Center into a masquerading orgy of fun. While some people (who will remain nameless!) do NOT dress up for the event, many partiers sport costumes that rival the gorgeous display of designs on the runway. (In one of the more bizarre aspects of the evening, designers were not identified with their clothes).

Dressed as “The Swan Who Gets Killed in the First Act of Swan Lake” (shown left with Carolee Custus), I’m delighted to discover the National Ballet is among the evening’s performers. Stripped down to their whites, they pirouette across boundaries between classical and downright raunchy dance with playful, orgiastic mastery. Various performers do their best to rock the fashion crowd, yet highbrows (some at $10,000 tables), and the plebs standing in bone crushing heels, remain subdued. What does it take Toronto?!

It takes a Diva dressed in a glittering yellow bata de cola dress, draped with a sun-yellow fur-trimmed cape that makes Liberace look like he shopped at the Gap. It takes a 72 year old Diva with a body that makes me look like a candidate for Type 2 diabetes. Oh yes – Dame Shirley Bassey flies from England to make a gala appearance at Fashion SCares. Before she is through the second chorus of her classic “Goldfinger” roses start flying through the air like American rockets in Kabul. By the end of her performance the stage is red with them. Even the Ladies Who Lunch are dancing on their Pradas, and gay and straight men alike are drooling enthusiastically.

Photo of Fritz Helder and The Phantoms by Tommy Ton @ jakandjil.com

While it is a night to party, revelers are reminded the epidemic is still in full swing. More children are orphaned by AIDS in Africa than children in the USA are in school. Here’s to Fashion SCares for all their great work in fighting this disease! And remember – whatever the season, condoms are always in style – perhaps the only accessory we really can’t live without. Check out the Condom Shack on Queen for excellent service and a range of latex-free condoms.

It took A LOT of people behind the scenes to transform the giant Convention Centre into a gala-worthy themed-scene. For interviews, check out Carolyn’s TFI blog with words by Manny Machado, Decor Designer and others.

Photos by Christina Pal

Rudsak, a Montreal leather fashion brand, shows a limited and wearable collection in, what else, leather. Monster Elvis Presley belts (circa fat and drug addicted), and a splash of hot cherry save the collection from depressing conservatism. Still, the sprayed on leather pants are a great wardrobe staple, and worth checking out at their 315 Queen St. West location. LZ

Morales Spring 2009

Montrealer Renata Morales trips out on contemporary Tokyo style with sculptural organza and chiffon printed with Yoshitomo Nara’s ubiquitous nasty children. Butter yellows, electric orange and robin egg blue dominate this collection that takes 50′s cupcake prom dresses to Harajuku heights. Top it all off with headgear that makes Elsa Schiaparelli look conservative. This is the kind of show that makes you cover your mouth to keep from screaming like a soccer fan! LZ