…and a girl! More looks from L’Oreal Fashion Week March 2008

Style setters at L’Oreal Fashion Week are sure to garbed in the latest trends coming soon en masse to T.O. streets. High-waisted and belted skirts are becoming so popular among teens and mature ladies alike (and look so ‘hipster feminine’), you can find them in both designer shops and more accessible spots like H&M.

by Tiff Ing

8 p.m.
The RUDSAK show began with FDCC head Robin Kay stumbling down the runway, euphorically thanking her crew. While Kay may not have seemed on top of her game, she did come through in the end with a statement about how Canadian fashion, compared to Eurofashion, is always a struggle–but it’s one that is independent and important. (She’s always very good at speeches).

Canadian leather apparel company (Montreal-based) RUDSAK was obviously thinking about the frigid outside temperature with this season’s grey, black, brown, and white line of puffy leather down coats and long jackets with long skirt details. Think of your favorite rainy day trench—now picture it in leather, with pleating on the bottom. The eighties came hard and fast with long drop waisted jackets (think Molly Ringwald in The Breakfast Club), belted coats, and leather piping to accent. Fur was also introduced to accent hoods on the more professional jackets, while leather hoodie jackets had denim detailing in pockets and buttons. Big medical bags contrasted envelope clutches in the accessory department, while men had cowboy boots to contrast the women’s sky-high thigh-highs. Everyone should be coveting such stylish outwear!

9 p.m.
It was no surprise that the runway room was jam-packed with fashion execs and stylish celebrities for Kim Newport-Mimran’s Pink Tartan presentation. Canadian songstress Sarah Slean was there along with a few Degrassi stars (who’ve been hanging about the tent all week). Pink Tartan’s signature plaid abounded in slightly punky styles, with zippers and fingerless gloves on the models. Simple prom-like dresses in purple, burgundy and black poufed at the waist. For more conservative types, there were plenty of suits with higher waist lines, shorter bolero jackets, and vests to fit the current 70s fashions. Bows at the neck were hot, as was the fur vest that Newport-Mimran tripped out in at the end of the show to take her bow.

photos Christina Pal

The Fur Council of Canada presents a controversially sensuous show of designers working in fur including the The Canadian Aboriginal Designers Group and other Canadian fashion designers.

Nunavut designer Rannva Simonsen re-interprets old school parkas with antler toggles while established designer D’Arcy Moses sets Victorian colonialism on its head with deliciously beaded deerskin corsets. Zuki’s colorful sheared beaver opera coats evoke Poiret’s 1930′s Paris nights, and Sidney Holloway, not yet out of Ryerson, is off to the races in furs mixed with Swarovski crystals (but unlike Joeffer Caoc, not with pony). The fur was aggressively presented as a sustainable material that supports the culture of First Nations people. The show actually ended with pseudo-protesters carrying signs supporting fur as an eco-friendly fabric.

Many fashionistas have mixed feelings about the material – with most supporting the use of vintage skins or fur trapped by aboriginal folks in a sustainable manner, but feel uncomfortable about fur farms and corporate trapping.

One style veteran irritated by appropriation of the green movement, remarked, “This is not a perspective – its a marketing spin.” A photographer who lived in an Innu community was more comfortable with the fur saying, “This is how the Inuit make their living – how else are they supposed to support themselves?”

What do you think??

Today I arrived at the tent early enough to watch Mother Hen, Ms. Robin Kay walk around to ensure every little thing was in order, “Who’s is that? Why is that there?” while her aides-in-tow moved things about and acted equally concerned. She looked fabulous first thing (as always) garbed in a luxurious fur vest – but with a personal RV parked behind the tent, it must make late-night abuses easier to bear the next morn.

2p.m. Impromptu Addition
Sar Couture went from wearable to way-out when a set of models came out back to back in heavy tweed pants paired with a gold textured top and then gold metallic tights paired with a lacy blouse. I’m no sleuth, but haven’t we seen these pieces before? Perhaps crossovers from Sarah Nicol’s ‘winning’ quelque filles collection shown at last year’s TFI New Labels Competition…This collection included numerous pieces in every imaginable fabric and color, showing that although quantity is there, quality is not exactly runway ready.

Farley Chatto is no amateur so it was surprising to see a drawn out, five part fleet of everything from wool suits to spandex boy shorts to plaid kilts. (The theme was about weary hunters in the Scottish highlands). It was equally surprising that the reputable Judy Inc, stylists did a truly amazing job of pairing pieces, but the pants were so distractingly wrinkled I have to wonder if they’re supposed to be that way?! The FORD male models in this show were gorgeous – the best looking line-up of the week – but those skin color spandex shorts were so unflattering, even I had to turn an eye. There was a cool pin-stripe duffel coat though.

3p.m. Waste of Time
I hate to be so snarky today, but I came early for…? The worst part of the Tatsuaki show was that the PR team did such a great job promoting the line (I heard that even Holt Renfrew would show) it made it all the more disappointing. I didn’t catch Barb Atkin and her crew but couldn’t help watching Jeanne Beker sitting across from me both trying to keep her eyes open and then expressing wonderment. What are we doing here? Outfit after outfit were items you could find in a dozen stores on Spadina – and there was no coherency to the collection whatsoever. I should’ve listened to Jeanne’s Fashion Television interview with designer Dan Liu to make sense of it all, but I made a beeline to the media tent to wait for the Zoran Dobric show.

Happy Birthday Jeanne!

I really wanted to make it, but I missed the 9:30 p.m. (that was delayed to 10:30 p.m.) Greta Constantine off-site show at Circa – I heard something about weird styling and an intended lack of FDCC reserved seating – but I wasn’t there and I still haven’t seen the photos online. (new note: I also heard that the show was amazingly gorgeous and I still can’t wait to see the collection).

Instead, after the tent, I went to the Lex PR organized event at Atelier (King St.) for Jeanne Beker’s birthday party and Bratz doll launch. It was an intimate family affair (Jeanne’s mom, boyfriend and daughter were there) to celebrate her new book for tweens and the doll. There was a giant three-tiered fondant cake with off course, the ‘fashion reporter’ Jeanne Bratz topper.

After Atelier, I headed out to Ultra – a little too pretentious to be one of my destination spots -
but stylist Maha was there helping out INK with its third fashion show of the week – the Christian Audigier fashion show. Very cool, flashy rockstar streetwear available at Blackline Studios (577 King Street West). This show started over an hour late, but luckily the club vibe was underway and there were other things to do – like drink and check out the latest in club wear – tight dresses, big cleavage and bare legs.

Each fashion week, INK, a Charles Khabouth company, organizes fashion shows at Ultra Supper Club and other venues in club district, usually showcasing big draw labels from local shops. This Saturday, the designer clothes are courtesy of Yorkville’s NOIR boutique.

I will be posting many photos shortly! Gotta go work on our special movie for [FAT]…

Toronto L’Oreal Fashion Week, March 17-22, 2008
Fall 2008 Collections, Nathan Phillips Square

It’s only three days in and already the media energy level at Nathan Phillips Square is starting to drop off: many of the bloggers and fashion journalists I ran into were in flats or boots and surprisingly, there are available seats at many of the shows. The only thing still going at full force is the swelling photographer pit at the end of the runway. Less energy spent choosing outfits and schmoozing must translate to longer lasting stamina!

Today I heard the Fur Council of Canada’s new campaign line, ‘Fur is Green‘. OK, we are in Canada and this individuality in fashion we are always striving for is best achieved if we nurture our fashion roots – but ‘Fur is Green’?! Make your own decisions, but no matter the trends, it is still cruel and unneccesary in 2008 to cage and kill animals for style, in my humble opinion. Ethics aside, the FCC presented a fur collection to be thankful for; beautiful craftsmanship, innovation and longevity. And they support humane trapping (eek), renewable resources and income for aboriginals…

7 p.m. Comrags
Today I discovered a new idea of beauty at the Comrags fall 2008 showing – a collection which also seems to have an ideal ‘Canadiana’ feel to it. I’m sure some of this had something to do with the prairie-like sophistication of the models (think Cate Blanchett) and the simplicity in styling (sculptural twig brooches and mens John Fluevog footwear), but I actually liked the Comrags overall look of brown, grey and navy. Now, not everyone can get into such a dull palette, but designers Joyce Gunhouse and Judy Cornish always find a way to really inject emotion into subdued foliage printed frocks, signature print overcoats, and crinkly crepe skirts. There was the simplest, yet perfect little black dress; and several skirts and trousers with muddled hemlines, as if the lass wearing them waded through soggy Sleepy Hollow.

8 p.m. Andy The-Anh
“Oh my gosh, it’s Tina Turner”, said the woman next to me as the music blared and models balancing on the highest of heels teetered to the end of the runway! What an awesome way to wake up the crowd at the end of a long day (I vaguely remember Ms. Jeanne Beker dozing off at the The-Anh show last season) than to turn up the lights and put on some rocking tunes!
As I watched Andy The-Anh fall 2008 collection, I could only imagine what the fashion editors were thinking – “*yawn* it’s been done, nothing new”. But as a fan of much needed glamour and interest in Canadian fashion (although even Andy toned it down a lot this season), there were a few things that caught not only my attention including impressive 8-gore jackets, a plethora of extended, accentuated waistlines and refreshing blue sheers used in goddess gowns and blouses. The-Anh’s clothes always make me think of soap opera ladies…

www.torontostreetfashion.com/fashionevents/fashionweek_fall2008.html

Of all the designers that show at L’Oreal Fashion Week season after season, Joeffer Coac consistently receives the highest praise for presenting quality craftsmanship, color coherency and top-notch quality collections.

For Fall 2008, Joeffer Caoc presents a deceptively simple collection in black, indigo and aubergine. Jersey and viscose are treated with twists and tucks that demand a second look, but deftly enhance, rather than interfere with the natural drape and flow of the garment. Mohair, ostrich feathers and leather add texture to the collection, but pony? (Beautiful – but just a little creepy for me.)

Nadya Toto’s (Montreal) fall 2008 collection makes you grateful for the wintry weather. A riot of fabrics in contrasting textures invites you to snuggle to softest merinos, cashmeres, velvets and fur. These are great basic pieces that will live a long and happy life in your wardrobe.

Fashion weeks starts off with Evan Biddell’s (Saskatoon) eco-friendly and eclectic collection made of sustainable fabrics. With a new age mix of lush hemp jerseys and heavy silks, Biddell flits from playfully structured Jetsons wear, to fully graceful goddess gowns.

Liza Zawadzka
Photos by Christina Pal
www.torontostreetfashion.com/fashionevents/fashionweek_fall2008.html