Canada's Hottest New Label

The Toronto Fashion Incubator and Elle Canada hosted the annual New Labels Competition Thursday night, kicking off the Elle Show - a three day trade beauty and fashion trade show for consumers.

The evening began with the customary Vin De Pays D'oc wine reception which kept all non-VIP guests busy as the show started one hour late! Fortunately we kept busy chatting with Project Runway Canada winner Evan Biddell, who is unfortunately not adjusting well to life in T.O. (he may leave for London at any moment!) We watched as both fashionable ladies and men sauntered around in bright yellow and purple outfits and shoes. And noticed all the fabulous contemporary hair cuts on women in their 40s (everyone should follow suit!)

Over the past few months, judges Nathalie Atkinson, National Post; Kathy Cheng, marketing Wing Son Garments; David Dixon, fashion designer; Mary Jo Looby, retail consultant; and Rita Silvan, editor Elle Canada have been determining how innovative, well-made, marketable and appealing each of the four contenders clothing lines are.

After actually planning and making the clothes for the show, designers have been busy casting models, doing fittings and making adjustments and working with stylists who really help make the entire collection look fresh and coherent on the runway. As well, each designer filmed a brief video blog/documentary that were shown before each collection was presented which provided much insight into inspirations and processes.

The Finals



Architecture + Fashion
Lara Presber's architecturally pleasant skirts and dresses were favoured by many (even judge Nathalie Atkinson was seen nodding in approval during the show) but didn't take home the prize. Inspired by an art deco painting, Presber conjured up sharp pleats counter-balanced with gentle hues like flat gold and gunmetal grey. Styled by Costa Pavlu of Judy Inc.

The Winner
Cocktail wear viewed through the kaleidescope of the past or something or other...in her video, winner Eugenia Levitt describes her line as 'fun' (for playing bridge perhaps). 'Sweet' is more suitable a word for this collection of silky dresses and skirts in navy, ivory and purple dotted with hand-made rosettes. So many rosettes in fact that Rolyn Chambers dubbed the line as the 'Where's Waldo of Rosettes?' Next on shoulders, next on hems, on bums, in hair... Marketable, well-made... Styled by Juliana Schavianatto, Plutino Group.


Hipster High Five
Among competitors all showing elegant and feminine clothing, it seemed the talented Adrienne Butifoker barely stood a chance - even with silky skirts and an amazing horizontal layered LBD. That's not to say we didn't love the wearable paper bag waisted pants, sack skirts, 70s look blouses all in black, navy and burnt orange. Probably my fave - So very Queen Street. Or Nylon Magazine. Styled by Alissa Krost, the Artist Group.

miss black
All black - the entire collection (her debut spring collection was all white). Making Ashley Rowe to Izzy Camilleri what Mui Mui is to Prada. A gigantic loopy wooly coat, leather tunic, heart-shaped bustier dress - all paired with skinny leggings. A consistent collection seemingly based on geometric shapes we all know: rectangle, triangle, square silhouettes - so nothing particularly new. With enough business sense (or money) to acquire a PR firm, miss rowe wins most likely to succeed. Stylist George Antonopoulos, Artist Group.

All photos by Christinal Pal, TSF.com principal photographer

Win FREE tickets to the Clothing Show!

Win tickets to Toronto's best designer and vintage sale, The Clothing Show - May 2-4, 2008.

Just send in a Head-to-Toe photo of yourself dressed in a mix of local designer duds and/or vintage finds, with details, to win two (2) free tickets to this massive 3-day clothing event! The first five (5) people to send in their photo and outfit details wins! All winning pics will be posted on the site.

Send photo (less than 1mg) to rachel@torontostreetfashion.com

New Labels Designer Competition Top 4 - This Week!

TFI New Labels Competition @ the Elle Show - This Thursday, April 24, 2008 at the Direct Energy Centre, Exhibition Place, Toronto.

From the TFI News Jan/Feb News:
Tickets for the ELLE Canada gala benefit in support of the Toronto Fashion Incubator are ON SALE NOW at www.elleshow.ca!

One of the following four candidates will walk away with the top prize of valued at $25,000.


Adrienne Butikofer’s collection (above) is inspired by the emancipation of women in the workplace during WW1. Adrienne is a Winnipeg native who studied fashion design at London’s Fanshawe College. Her line features separates and streetwear retailing from $60 to $390, and can be found in Montreal at Le Marche; in Toronto at Magic Pony, Nathalie Roze & Co. and Propaganda.


Inspired by the traditions of the “handmade”, combined with a passionate belief that clothing should be treasured, Montrealer Eugenia Leavitt describes her clothing as, “romantic yet modern, combining artistic, feminine touches with clean, simple designs”. Pieces retail from $110 to $425 and can be found at Meli Melo in Montreal. Eugenia studied fashion design at the International Academy of Design in Montreal.


Calgary-based designer Lara Presber studied architecture in Milan at the Domus Academy campus of the University of Wales. For fall 2008, she is inspired by the exploration of the juxtaposition between the feminine and soft figures of Art Deco painter Tamara de Lempika’s subjects with their masculine and greyed-out architectural backgrounds (see above). Separates range from $125 to $700 retail and can be found at The Velvet Room Boutique in Vancouver.


Ashley Rowe’s miss rowe collection of fashion-forward coats and separates (above) was inspired by her mother’s vintage looped-wool coat, which has a rock&roll-meets-English-dandy appeal. Ashley is a George Brown College graduate and former intern at Flare and Fashion magazines.

ZINK Canada Cover

The new ZINK Canada magazine has been floating around for a month or two now (sold @ Indigo among others) but I only recently acquired my copy ($6) chock full of Canadian features, Canadian designer ads and multiple photo shoots put together by Canadian stylists et al...

However, with all this emphasis on maintaining relevance of the premiere Canadian issue - the cover (and feature photo editorial) contradicts the message: Covergirl Reid was shot by New York-based Canadian photographer Geoff Barrenger; New York-based stylist Tracy Cyprow used an American designer dress (Betsey Johnson) and hair and make-up were contracted out to American agencies.

Editor-at-large, Adrian Mainella, 'gets to the bottom of Canada's fashion dilemma' pointing out our problem of a lower GDP (we spend less than others); our turn-on to international labels; lack of branding; and no ONE relevant national fashion week (for international buyers).

The mag covers beauty, music, gadgets a little food and travel and many fashion spreads. 4 issues/year.

CAUTION: CONFLICT! [FAT] Day 3

by Liza Zawadzka

The last night of [FAT] gets off to a raucous start as desparate fans steal front row seats - tossing seat-saver coats and bags aside and defending their view like it was the Gaza strip. The theme of the last evening was Conflict and revellers were incidently slightly more on edge and
moody...

The show started with a modern dance performance (I know - I usually gag at modern dance too - but the dancers are amazingly interesting). An artist drums on a computer snare drum, a video of Chinese drummers in military uniforms plays in the background, while a dancer winds yellow caution tape around the audience. Perhaps the work suggests a caution to the Olympic organizing committee to "think before you do"!

Asphyxia and Magdelina showcase their clothes with zombie models covered in "blood" (albeit glittery pretty blood) and the most creepy and amazing special effects make-up. The designers create a contemporary collage of Victorian materials - a tarnished silver ballgown, vintage velvet sparkling with jet, and ancient lace tangled and mangled to create a most interesting net effect. Vanja Vasic works with heavy white cotton outrageously cut to reveal an entire boob or butt cheek. Her deconstruction/reconstruction of fabric cut and sewn back together in thousands of layers of soft feathery ruffles is astonishingly beautiful as much as it is obsessive.

If you're looking for something to wear to a Yuri party then Red Barron has the perfect outfit in heavy white canvas ensembles complete with plastic bubble helmets and the NASA logo emblazoned in strategic places. Fashion diehards give Jessica Nicholson a standing ovation for her fearless collection which includes a video of anti-globalization protests and a cowl-backed dress made from a Palestinian scarf. Jewelry designer Jiame Galinea sets off the collection with witty necklaces, bracelets and headgear made from delightfully colourful lego pieces. Vecerra presents a small but interesting collection of plaster body cast corsets and a silver Barbarella short suit. Thanks to [FAT] for giving artists an opportunity to play, experiment and speak without limitations!

[FAT] Day 2: Everything but the...

DJ Daniel Wilson in a one shoulder jumper by Andrew Kerrigan

Sonja Andic in a Kameleon watch necklace with Liza Zawadzka

Model and scenester Biko Beauttah before her NOW MyStyle runway debut

Sarah Campbell backstage preparing for the The Rage fashion show

Front row day 2

The Deadly Nightshades celebrate the fashion film, 'A Night out with the Deadly Nightshades' promoting sustainability in fashion and good times!

Stylist Kym Chambers, curating a [FAT] installation, '7 Straight Jackets interpreting 7 Deadly Sins' with Fashion Television intern Shenae Grimes

Imagine a spot where you can go, hang out with friends, listen to amazing bands, dance a little, catch some eye candy and do some seriously interesting people watching, peruse some multimedia art exhibits, watch a few runway fashion shows AND experience more than one performance dance show - all in a night. That's [FAT] Toronto Alternative Arts and Fashion Week 2008.

Dancers kept us glued to our seats for Anna Smutny's "Thick Motions"

On Day 2, major kudos go out to the music and dance performances. Anna Smutney's contemporary dance troupe captured our attentions and held on so tightly as the three dancers extracted emotion and feelings with intense dramatic movements. Later in the evening a mucho caliente salsa couple spiked the energy and mood of the crowd with hip grinds, lifts and hot moves.


The Virginia Titty Killers, a multi-man ensemble (that I can't seem to find online), fronted by former runway model Kobe James, funked out like a George Clinton P-Funk band, except it was more rapping and singing - high energy and super stage presence!

Sick Sound System created a full-on orchestra of beat boxing and vocal percussion - more than impressive - you HAVE to check them out!

[FAT] Day 2: ...fashion

Did you plan those outfits? Runway Co-ordinator Wesley Badanjak and PR gal Sonja Miokovic


Paper People Clothing by Jen Fukushima


The first of the only two standing ovations at [FAT], Heidi Ackerman and her fashionable sustainable knitwear collection.


Marlene Shiff with model Cedric after the Babu et Moi show... The party begins!



[FAT] ended in the most invigorating and positive way, leaving everyone with a smile on their face as they left! For the last show, Babu et Moi, each of the models individually danced (and I mean danced!) down the runway. As the show ended, models pulled the front rowers onto the runway, creating a giant dance party. Can you imagine - everyone got up and danced - how cool is that?!

I have to mention that I have the utmost respect for all the amazing models who worked show after show and injected much personality into the collections with their purple hair, tattooed arms, love handles and newbie innocence (except at the Krane show of course, see below).

Tommy Ton, photographer and stylist injected a little Parisian mystique for the KRANE show - photo jakandjil.com

[FAT] Day 1: Do you even like fashion?!

[FAT]s fiercest model rocks a Magpie gown


Rachel with Vessna Perunovich and [FAT] photographer William Chrysler aka Zaiden

[FAT] is so cool (come a long way in three years) that Executive Director Vanja Vasic is surely giving L'Oreal Fashion Week bigwig Robin Kay a run for her money!

The vibe at the Fermenting Cellar of the Distillery District on day one (1) was slow and steady; soothingly lit with at least 10 flat screens spread around the space showing various artistic videos including Arline Malakian's 'The Gaze' and Vessna Perunovich's Midnight Marriage (who happens to be [FAT] artistic director and Vanja's mom).


Similar to foreplay if you will, the aura bred excitement with slight hestitation (likely because many of the would-be participants were at Ryerson's Mass Exodus Show); but the crowd was certainly fashionable and edgy and the models were even better, throwing runway convention aside and strutting, dancing and swaying with the flow of this alternative event.

[FAT] is art, amazingly talented musical acts and fashion; and day one showcased 12 fashion designers in three parts.

Amie Scott broke from her usual sunnyside up egg shirts and presented a dozen looks that had everyone around me in stitches (in a good way) as each look surfaced: a blood-tainted gown with a severed arm attached, a hamburger dress with fabric bun, tomato et al., and a camo-print full bustle gown. We loved the dress made with pj material with a bum-flap (what a great idea, why hasn't anyone thought of this before?!)

Wesley Badanjak (runway coordinator and designer) presented the most polished collection of the group for men and women which included tailored skinny pants and chic vests; while Magpie enchanted with full-length tie-dyed African-style dresses wound and tied with straps of fabric. For the final show, Lena Love opened for Kirsty McKenzie and was followed by a group of fabulously fierce models dressed in her mix-up of floral creations which garnered much praise from my fashion friends.

We didn't spot much fashion media in the crowd besides FAB writer Rolyn Chambers, NOW Magazine's Andrew Sardone and fashionista extraordinaire Lucinda McRuvy (maybe saving their energy for our fashion film tomorrow night?) but did hear from a source that when asked what she thought of the show, the Flare editor's assistant shrugged and scowled. No taste for art?? Our source then questioned, 'Do you even like fashion??!' We love it!

[FAT] Day 1 More Pics

(apologies for the photo quality - was having issues - better tomorrow!)

A Night out with the Deadly Nightshades

Official movie photography by digitalfabrik.ca

Toronto Alternative Arts and Fashion Week [FAT] is in a couple of days (April 9-11, 2008), following Ryerson's new Fashion Week and the graduating fashion design show Mass Exodus.

In-studio shooting (minor parts) with the green screen - super fun!
digitalfabrik.ca

On Thurs. April 10, myself and a bunch of illustrious crazy people will be premiering a 10 minute fashion video we've been working on called, 'A Night out with the Deadly Nightshades' - a high-energy, fashionable tale of four stylish designers, who also happen to be a bike gang, who set out to spread the word about sustainability and social responsibility in fashion.

Even with the 'green' movement, the fashion industry is continuously guilty of toxic chemical clothing, fast-fashion and massive waste and slave-labour factories. The Deadly Nightshades, made up of Irene Stickney, Nniamh McManus, Cat Essiambre and Meaghan Orlinksi, ethically strive to bring industry change in this film and in their every day lives.

The girls @ Critical Mass in Toronto ethical-minded cyclists from all over the city digitalfabrik.ca


Spreading the message @ L'Oreal Fashion Week

A Night out with the Deadly Nightshades, directed by George Browne, premieres Thursday, April 10 @ 8:15 p.m.
[FAT] Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District, 55 Mill Street Tickets $15/20 for all three nights.

[FAT] Designer LINKS

Performer Lena Love for Kirsty McKenzie


UsThemWe "Vanity Turns to Green" (Photography: Keith Ledoux of WMXXIII Productions
Makeup: Charlotte Mars, Hair/Model: Ashley Brewer of Blood, Sweat & Shears)

Toronto Alternative Arts & Fashion Week
[FAT] April 9-11, 2008 7:30 p.m. to 1 a.m.
Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District

April 9 Transitory Space (only those 'runway' artists with web links are listed)
www.starkers.com
www.breeyn.com
www.magpiedesigns.com
www.amiescott.com
www.brookealviano.com
www.lovasfashion.com
www.decadentdesigns.ca
www.myspace.com/kirstyisthirsty

April 10 Urban Experiment
www.therage.etsy.com
www.dillydaisy.com
www.innergeek.ca
www.paperpeopleclothing.com
www.fieerce.com
www.snowflakefashion.com
www.marmalade-shop.ca
www.kranedesign.com
www.babuetmoi.com

April 11 Conflict
www.magdelina.com
www.asphyxiadesigns.com
www.usthemwe.com
www.redbarndesigns.com
www.vicerra.com
www.plastikwrap.com
www.futurstate.com

For a complete list of web links and schedule, visit www.getfat.ca

Toronto Fashion In the News

One-time critic gives T.O. thumbs-up
Globe & Mail, Amy Verner, March 29, 2008

Ever since celebrity stylist Phillip Bloch bemoaned Toronto fashion week as amateurish four years ago, his caustic criticism has haunted Hogtown's runways...For the record, a re-evaluation was not the primary purpose of his trip. Here for less than 36 hours, Bloch spent much of his time at a booth within the tents touting the stylishness of Hush Puppies...Able to squeeze in a few shows, Bloch said Greta Constantine was a standout ("Fifties Dior meets Yohji Yamamoto's Y3").

Lessons from the catwalk (Fashion Week Recap)
National Post, Nathalie Atkinson, March 29, 2008

Being Canadian is an asset, not an excuse. Consumers around the world don't buy all those Feist, Arcade Fire and Broken Social Scene albums out of patriotic pride. The same goes for clothes: People won't buy Canadian to be virtuous, so Canadian designers have to appeal to vanity. Canadian clothes have to be as good as, if not better than, the thousands of labels they compete with. Based on this criterion, Montreal maestros Denis Gagnon, Helmer and Marie Saint-Pierre and Toronto designers Comrags, David Dixon and Joeffer Caoc will have a very good year.

Fashion ties in with MySpace Canada
Media in Canada, Jesse Kohl

Toronto-based St. Joseph Media's Fashion Magazine partnered with MySpace Canada for an interactive fashion hub, and plans are in the works for a cross-Canada search for 10 fashion bloggers.

Art Attack: Easiest DIY Spring Trend

Toronto artist Beckie Dileo in her hand-painted dress | Random paint pants from Antoni&Alison (above) and YSL painted frocks

You don't have to be an artist to pull off the easiest DIY trend this spring - just grab some paint and do what the elitist designers at YSL, Chloe, Thakoon and Basso&Brooke do - throw it, spatter it and randomly paint it on your clothes.


Toronto-based Ndeur popular hand-painted shoes (available @ the Rage) | Looks @ Erdem and Dolce&Gabbana, Spring 2008

MASS EX COUNTDOWN: CHELSEA CLARIDGE

WHAT IS YOUR COLLECTION CALLED: c.helsea c.laridge
SEASON: Spring/Summer 2009
INFLUENCES: For my collection I was influenced by looking through old family photo albums of the 1940's and 70's.
FABRICS: I used all natural fabrics, such as silks and cottons, which are great for the summer.
FAVOURITE PIECE: My favourite piece from the collection has to be the navy blue tulip skirt. The overall silhouette is dramatic, yet still very wearable.
WHO DO YOU DESIGN FOR: I design for young, urban women who want to look girly yet sexy, feminine yet masculine, quirky yet professional and so on.
DESIGN PHILOSOPHY: I love taking contrasting elements and mixing them together. I'm attracted to unusual combinations of fabrics and colors, which ordinarily wouldn't be paired together.
FAVORITE PEICE IN MY CLOSET: My hat collection
CAN FASHION BE POLITICAL: Yes, I think fashion can be political. Fashion is definitely influenced by what is going on in the world, and that includes politics.
WHAT HAS FOUR YEARS AT RYERSON TAUGHT YOU: Four years at Ryerson has taught me that you really have to love what you're doing, otherwise all the hours of hard work, and the constant stress will catch up with you.
FAVORITE CANADIAN DESIGNER: Jeremy Laing
WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN FIVE YEARS: Successfully running my own clothing company.
WHAT DOES CANADIAN DESIGN MEAN TO YOU: Canadian design is new, and up and coming.