Project Runway Canada VIII

Kendra's losing suit | MG's winning suit

10:10 The designers need to choose iconic looks to create a bathing suit from. The next day, Brian Bailey tells them they have to do two suits—one for a plus-sized model. Biddell basically says he’s going to sleep through this challenge because he has immunity, and he tries to help Lucian buy materials. Lucian says he’s acting like he won the whole thing. Biddell calls Lucian “Buddynuts.”

10:15 MG starts playing with the plus-sized model’s bra, laughing that she could never wear it. I don’t actually find this funny—it’s not really fair to the plus-sized model to laugh at her body or size. None of the designers has worked with plus-sized models, and they’re really insulting them with their designs.

10:20 Stephen tries on Lucian’s suit. Enough said.

10:25 Everyone is really upset at Biddell for not taking the challenge seriously, including Brian Bailey. Stephen says Biddell is being pretty intolerable, and Lucian adds that they’re so different—like “couture and, I don’t know, slut.” Kendra says she’s never met so many high-maintenance boys in her life.

10:48 The judges think Shernett’s suits are horrible for the era—the plus sized one really does look dumpy. MG’s is great, especially the one for the plus sized model. Kendra’s and Lucian’s are mediocre.

10:58 Kendra is kicked off! I’m shocked—she’s a great designer, but I guess she just didn’t give enough Marie Antoinette-ness to it. It’s too bad, but no doubt us Torontonians will see her talent again soon.

Next week, the designers are headed to California! I can’t wait—meet you all here, same fashion time, same fashion place!

DON"T HAVE CABLE? Watch Project Runway Canada ONLINE!! There's also extended scenes, designer blogs and photos!

Final Fashion's Danielle Meder

Danielle Meder, Ryerson School of Fashion's 'Most Likely to Succeed'
by Irene Stickney

Now that fashion school is out for another year, a new slew of emerging talent wafts aimlessly, unknowingly as to what the future holds. Not so for Danielle Meder, an ambitious recent Ryerson grad who already boasts a design resume.

She produces her own clothing line, 'Final Fashion', is a kick-ass illustrator, won a Zellers design contest and now has kids 'Sportek' clothes available, may be the first full-time designer for Pho Pa and documents it all in a popular fashion blog along the way (finalfashion.blogspot.com).

Irene Stickney: Why did you go to university where you did?

Danielle Meder: Going to university was a ploy to escape my small-town life. I didn't know anyone anywhere so I needed an excuse and university was it. I almost went for English (I still love to read and write), but I decided on fashion so I would develop some skills outside of reading and writing, which I can do on my own. I chose Ryerson so I would get a degree, too. I wanted a school that was far enough from home, but not too far. I didn't know anything about fashion when I started school, but the more I learned the more passionate I became.

IS: What or who inspires you?

That's hard. Whatever's going on at the moment, the sum of all my experience and knowledge, my own insatiable need to express, the limitations of the project. Whatever.

IS: What has been your most memorable moment as a designer so far?

Going to Zellers and buying an outfit I designed. I had this wonderful opportunity because I won the deZigners competition sponsored by Zellers. I designed a small collection for their Sportek brand for 8-14 year old girls. Part of the award I received was the chance to see an outfit I had made produced and sold in Zellers stores the GTA. On sale now, actually, go check it out! It was a wonderful experience, I want to thank Zellers so much for the opportunity. It was so encouraging.


IS: Growing up, who was your fashion hero?

Probably my best friend Bronwyn. She's the one who first took me shopping, with her mom. We lived in a small town so we had to drive two hours to the nearest mall. I always loved her clothes and what she wore and I would borrow them from her all the time. We also used to draw pictures of fantasy superheroines, and we made dolls and doll clothes together. I didn't know anything about fashion as a child so I guess my hero would be the one who introduced me to the idea of new, trendy clothes and how they made me feel.

IS: What designer can you not stop thinking about?

Me. As in worrying and hoping and trying to be a designer, to practice design, to design well. I wish I could think about myself and my fashion design career less often, but I guess that's where I'm at these days.

IS: What's the problem with fashion in Toronto right now?

The problem is people think there's a problem. Everyone stop comparing Toronto to New York, stop copying instead of designing (that's the formula for being second best), and the problem will solve itself.

IS: What's the best design advice you've been given?

So much great advice. So hard to pick one bit of it. The best advice has always been about the great importance of uncompromising quality, and neat, professional presentation.

IS: What fashion crime gives you goosebumps?

So called "designers" who copy the work of others.

IS: What would you be doing if you weren't designing?

Sleeping, reading, spending time with my boyfriend Ray.

IS: How do you feel about overseas manufacturing?

It's a complicated subject. I do not object to overseas manufacturing in principle, but at the same time I deplore the death of manufacturing in North America. I think we are losing something valuable, and we don't understand the value of what we're losing. I have great respect for apparel manufacturers and workers. They are weathering the perfect storm right now and need all the support they can get.

IS: Best place in Toronto to shop?

Pho Pa at 698 Queen Street West.

IS: Best place to eat?

We love Tortilla Flats.

IS: Blog fixations right now?

Kathleen Fasanella at Fashion-Incubator - http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/
Zoe at Verbal Croquis - http://verbalcroquis.wordpress.com/
These women are my heroes.

IS: Ever get second thoughts about fashion?

No. I'm just not good at anything else.

IS: Any Toronto celebrity crushes?

Peter Mansbridge is hot.

IS: What's the worst thing you've ever done?

Answer this question.

Brave Beltworks - Made in Canada

In a highly-stimulated buyers market of frivolous fashion goods, Asian manufacturing and supplies are the norm, cheap labour converts to cheap products and our North American mentality of fast fashion (easy come, easy go) reigns. Lately, many of us want to calm our environment by adapting to ethical options but we certainly do not want to stop shopping!

Fashionably, one of the best ways to help the planet is to buy local, higher quality items with longer lives while considering the manufacturing process.

Scott Irvine, founder of Brave Leather Inc. in his Toronto warehouse

As part of its Spring media showcase, we were invited to the Brave Beltworks production studio for a tour from owner and founder Scott Irvine. With a little business training, a tad of family knowledge, a stint in modelling and a whole heap of passion and pride, Scott's humble beginnings took him from a street vendor to a 100% Canadian manufacturer with his products sold in almost 1400 stores around the world!

Brave Beltworks makes leather belts and cuffs - metallics with studs, patent waist-cinchers, supple sashes, buckled, stitchless and textured - using only the "very best" high-quality leathers and salmon skins (looks like snakeskin), both remains of the food industry. The skins are vegetable-tanned, which although is a slower, more expensive procedure, is a more eco-friendly alternative to dyeing the leather and get better with age. From there, the leather can go through 37 processes to become a belt - all of which is done in the Toronto factory. About 20 employees or 'creative craftspeople' cut, bevel and finish each belt mostly by hand. No detail is left undone - while we were there a woman was hand painting the insides of each hole on the belts! Irvine still makes every sample himself but relies on the expertise of his staff to help nurture the design process.

As a 100% Canadian manufacturing company (For 'Made in Canada' status, 51% of production must be from Cdn sources), Brave rivals the quality and price of any leather accessories company around the world. Irvine says by doing everything in-house, they are able to design and make hundreds of belts a day, while keeping production costs reasonable. Several sales agencies throughout North America fuel sales and a PR company assists with media and events. So although Irvine considers his Brave Belts a niche product, they are being sold in 27 countries around the world with majority sales from larger stores such as Nordstrom's in the U.S. and include celebrity clients such as Jennifer Lopez and Sarah McLaughlin.

"I think 'Made in Canada' really means something to Canadians," Irvine says, "We're really proud of our company and strive to make the very best product there is, in Canada!"

In Toronto, Brave Belts are sold at Over the Rainbow, Holt Renfrew and Mendocino. From $49 to $165.

Project Runway Canada VII

bu Tiff Ing

Bidell's winning gown | Megan's losing gown

10:15 The designers have to design a dress to be auctioned off at a ball Iman is hosting for "Keep a Child Alive," which works to bring life-saving drugs to children in Africa with HIV/AIDS. The theme is hope, and this is one of the best challenges yet—it's great that they're doing something for the world.

10:18 Biddell is very upset that Carlie has left and takes it out on Lucian. He's also upset that they're designing for "the wealthiest people in Canada." Hey, if it's for charity, what's your problem, Biddell?

10:20 Megan says this is a competition for the next great fashion designer, not the next great sewer. That may be true, but if you can't get a sample made properly as a Canadian designer, you're not going anywhere.

10:27 Everyone's excited but nervous about the quality needed at this moment—clearly no one has been finishing their pieces as well as should have! I love MG's blue gown with roses, and Biddell's looks pretty awesome.

10:34 Brian announces that someone bid $10,000 on a dress! MG comments that at the end of the day, it doesn't matter whose it was—that will save a lot of lives.

10:47 Biddell's dress is AMAZING. Shawn calls it the best dress of the season. I hope it wins.

10:50 Rita says she wanted to like Shernett's—that's how I felt. Rita also calls Megan's dress "gloomy"—she says it's a dress for a woman who is PMS-ing and bloated. It's true—the dress lacks any styling, no wonder she was done early this week!

10:57 Biddell wins and Megan finally goes home! The judges seem happy to have her go—the other designers say the dress was her best work yet. Maybe so, but Megan's best is pretty much every other designer's worst.

DON"T HAVE CABLE? Watch Project Runway Canada ONLINE!! There's also extended scenes, designer blogs and photos!

Fashion Figure of YOU

Ryan, Sonja, Susie, Gail, Anita

You've probably seen your friends on Facebook illustrated as Simpsons characters or South Park kids - but the fab! and fashionable in the city are being re-created as their very own, very customized 'Fashion Figures'.

Danielle Meder, Final Fashion blogger and illustrator, does an amazing job at truly capturing the essence of her subjects in her 'Fashion Figures'. These special, custom illustrations can be used on business cards or moo cards (smaller cards), post cards, stickers, archival prints for your wall, and use it online in correspondence and online profiles.

Fully customized: You choose everything you want - angle, colors, mood and most importantly outfit!! One full-colour Fashion Figure is $150. 100 fashion moo cards are an additional $25 (limited time offer).

finalfashion@gmail.com

One of a Kind Holiday Gifts

Everyone knows that malls nearing the Christmas and holiday season are nightmarish! Although malls usually provide a one-stop shopping experience, staying away can be stress free and pleasant!

Prickly Pear | Philo-soapy | Adhesif Clothing Co. | Wendy Ryan Folk Art | Moonrox | Tsunami Glassworks

The One of a Kind Christmas Show and Sale, Thursday, November 22 - Sunday, December 2, 2007
Direct Energy Centre, Exhibition Place $10-$12

Over 800 artisans deliver the latest in fashion and accessories, gourmet treats, art, toys and fine crafted creations. Complimentary childcare, wheelchairs, parcel check.

Meet some designers at last year's One of a Kind Show & Sale here >>

Project Runway VI

by Tiff Ing

Carlie's dress | Lucien Challenge Winner

10:10 The designers have to work with their opposites this week, and they've brought back the previously eliminated designers. Shernett now has to choose someone to work with and to bring back to the show. She chooses Michael, and Michael is not happy. Good for her for standing up for her beliefs and not taking it from the show!

10:12 MG is brought in again, and she looks happy to be designing again. I'm glad, although it really seemed like she was fine with leaving.

10:24 The designers are given $100 and told they have to be sure that one piece is evening and one is daywear. All the teams have to adjust their ideas…and Brian Bailey seems not to understand any of their ideas.

10:33 The designs are getting worse and the challenges are just getting harder. Group work isn't good for any of these designers. Carlie sews on Megan's dress as they run down the hall because the zipper ripped—does anyone honestly still believe this girl should be on the show?

10:50 Iman is the most fun part of the show! Her judging comments today included: "May God strike you dead!" and "Et tu, Brutus—have you all gone crazy?!" That said, I feel like Carlie could have done a lot better with a nicer fabric, and everyone else did their best. I desperately hope they don't kick off Carlie!

10:59 Carlie is cut. I'm shocked. She had one bad dress, and Megan has been a constant mess since day one. I'm really disappointed in this show now. I feel like talent is wasted and ignored…

How do you all feel? Let us know!

Last Chance for [FAT]

DEADLINE: Dec 1, 2007 - Late Submission Deadline: Dec. 15, 2007

Looking for bold, innovative, fresh and exciting work from all creative individuals exploring fashion through design, performance, photography, video, installation, sculpture and music.

We want to see work that pushes the boundaries in the arts and fashion!! (see coverage here)

FASHION DESIGN: Women's Wear, Men's Wear, Wearable Art, Couture
VISUAL ART: Installation, Video, Performance Art, Sculpture, Photography

MUSIC: All Musical Forms Of Expression Welcome

Themes for 2008:
Conflict| Urban Experiment | Global Nomad | Transitory Space

TO DOWNLOAD AN APPLICATION VISIT : WWW.GETFAT.CA

Studio 1686: Wardrobe from Films

Studio 1686, a new sleek and boxy apparel shop by Marya Duplaga, movie wardrobe stylist opened on the far west end of Toronto's Queen Street this past weekend. Studio 1686's unique selling point is clothing sourced from film studio wardrobe departments. Men's and women's designer fashions gently worn or not at all are on sale for a fraction of what you would pay anywhere else!

Designer snapshot:

Moschino jeans for $85 and Juicy Jeans for $45. A sleek selection of mainly black evening dresses. A stunning coat by L.A.M.B for $245. Trousers by Valentino, Versus, Marni and Issey Miyake. Think of any designer label and you will most likely find it here. Shoes and jewllery are also available.

The boutique also offers cosmetics by R.H. Studio, which feature natural minerals.

It is far out of the normal shopping district of Queen Street West, but worth the trip if you want to save money. The are also a few vintage shops and a great little cafe in the neighbourhood.

1686 Queen St West (east of Roncessvalles)

416.533-5400

Outerwear - True Canadian Style

Prepare for more mukking about: A fashion line that donates part of its profits to Aboriginals is readying for its second act
Anne Kingston | Macleans | Published October 29, 2007 (link to full article)

Muks, the London-based fashion line that owes its existence to a paparazzi shot of Kate Moss wearing Native Canadian footgear, is readying for its second act. Its first, as anyone with passing familiarity with the gossip rags knows, was the celebrity-fuelled elevation of mukluks to must-haves. Now, the most brilliant branding exercise since Evian is priming to bring First Nations-inspired chic to the fashion-forward.

A big part of Muks's branding on its elegant website, www.muklukstore.com, is its made-in-Canada-by-native-people origins. As is the fact the company donates an unspecified percentage of profits to CAHRD, the Centre for Aboriginal Human Resource Development. Yet Cooke refuses to name the manufacturer, fearing it'll be deluged by direct requests. Such is the size of the Canadian mukluk manufacturing community, however, that it's easy to track Muks to Winnipeg-based Fleece Line, run by Sean McCormick, a 33-year-old Metis who makes hiring Aboriginals a priority. McCormick says he's fielded plenty of approaches from retailers who want to buy the boots directly. He always says no. "All due credit should go to Jaime," he says. "She ran with it, and did outstanding things in the fashion world."

With Muks's success, Fleece Line moved facilities and increased staff from 15 to 25 (beadwork is outsourced to some 100 people, many on reserves). McCormick says it's about time Aboriginals benefited from the production of Aboriginal-inspired goods. "You go into stores selling First Nation souvenirs and 90 per cent are made in China," he says.

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Canada is the leader of the pack when it comes to deep-freeze style
Vivian Vassos | National Post | Published Saturday, October 06, 2007 (link to full article)

When it comes to fashion, Canada isn't universally viewed as an international style mecca. But what has made it to the world's runways is this country's inspired take on cold-weather couture. From last season's anoraks to this season's puffy, quilted numbers, outerwear to brave the elements has never been so fashionable.

What is just as interesting is that the leaders of the Canadian outerwear pack have rarely walked a runway in Milan or Paris. But they do know their market. Weatherproof footwear makers La Canadienne are often seen on feet stalking the streets of Manhattan, Canada Goose parkas warm Arctic explorers as well as Hollywood's elite on screen and off (Dennis Quaid, Hilary Duff and Nicolas Cage), and manufacturers are battling to produce Montreal-based Aquatalia's waterproof footwear.

Grey....is a state of mind.

Do an Edie Beale - A rare treasure trove of madness and extreme fashion set in a derelict garden in the Hampton's.

It is recommended to see the original Grey Gardens sub-titled movie before seeing the Drew Barrymore make-over of the classic documentary. ( Sorry Drew, enjoy Toronto while you are here. Love to talk about it with you!) Grey Gardens is the name of a neglected, sprawling mansion , home to the two 'Edie's' that became the center of scandal when it was revealed in 1973 that the reclusive aunt and cousin to Jackie O. were living in a state of poverty and filth - chic reclusive squalor at its best!

Heard about it in http://www.bonmagazine.com magazine, Spring 2007 - Watched it soon after and loved it!

Project Runway V: ah, the drama!

by Tiff Ing

Megan's winning gown | Lucien in 2nd place

10:14 Danielle Meder (aka Final Fashion)has finally arrived, and I hear that Measha Brueggergosman, Canada's premier soprano is the client for this week. The challenge is to create a gown for her to wear on tour this year.

10:22 Biddell says his biggest competition is probably Lucian, and I agree. He's probably the most used to doing this kind of thing. Danielle doesn't like Biddell's designs. I say they're too street, and she says they're too 'hick'.

10:32 Megan's model disappears on her, so she has to borrow Kendra's for the fitting…she finally gets another model, and freaks out. We're sick of her whining—when are they going to kick Megan off the show?! MG seems uninterested in the challenge, and my opinion is that she's not adapting to the challenges. Danielle comments that she'll be fine on her own, and I agree, going so far as to say that she's too opinionated for the show. Danielle says that's a good thing for a designer. It's that that I think makes her better than the show—she doesn't need it to succeed. Danielle suggests that maybe she's sabotaging herself…

10:42 Danielle and I love Shernett's insane virtuoso dress. It's wild and it's clearly the winner. Danielle says having fewer designers now, we get more of the designers' thoughts on their work, which is nice.

10:50 What?! The judges think Shernett's dress is too much. They love Megan's dress. I agree, but Danielle isn't feeling it:"I feel like it has one good idea, and that's it." There's shock on everyone's faces as they defend their dresses. The client is pretty bitchy about Kendra's, saying it's boring as "vanilla."

10:54 Megan wins. Biddell is like, "Christ." Lucian is second, and he's obviously upset about it. Shernett is also upset, because she had a totally awesome dress and she was passed over. We get a shot of her crying on Lucian's shoulder.

10:56 Marie-Genevieve gets kicked off, and she's smiling as she does it. She says that the judges don't understand her style, and that's fine, so she's moving on. I mention that she didn't seem very happy on the show, and Danielle exclaims, "Yeah, she's obviously the only sane one there!"

What were your thoughts?! Comment and let us know! (and thanks to Danielle for watching with me!) Project Runway Canada airs Mondays @ 10 p.m. on Slice
DON"T HAVE CABLE? Watch it ONLINE!! There's also extended scenes, designer blogs and photos!

Fashion Week Street Fashion

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