Speech: Jewellery for Dudes

Speech by Michael Mercanti, a Toronto-based handmade line of rugged "pirate chic" jewellery has found its way onto the pages of Teen Vogue, refinery29's pipeline and is well endorsed throughout the blogsphere.

Nails and screws that look like they've been pulled out of a wall; swords and daggers and even mini Manolos and Louboutins adorn leather and chains - rock 'n roll embellishments, if you will mainly for men but equally striking on babes (although apparently a line for women is in the works).

Speech also has t-shirts available >> check the website for more info.

In Toronto,
Carte Blanche, 758 Queen Street West
george C, 21 Hazelton Avenue

Gifts For Dad

Father's Day is June 21, 2009.

www.braveleather.com

Men @ Fat

Opposing Views

With a touch of color...

Daniel&Brock in Philip's Studio

Boys in Jeans

Top o'T.O. - More Phil Sparks

Canadian-inspired, fur, paper cotton, vintage Italian fabrics and high-end flannel.

Anita at BlogTo interviewed Philip before his recent Burroughes Building show >> about this season's Peter and the Wolf theme. >>

All photos digitalfabrik.ca

Stu-stu-studio Warming Party for Philip Sparks!

Toronto menswear designer Philip Sparks launched his new showroom - located in the historic Burroughes Building, 639 Queen Street West, Suite 505 (5th floor).

The Philip Sparks menswear line is rooted in heirloom tailoring techniques twisted to create a nostalgic but modern piece. The collection is sold in Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver at Balisi, Delphic, Espace Pepin, Gotstyle, Holt Renfrew, Simon’s and UPC Boutique.

Open to the public every Saturday between 12 p.m. and 6 p.m.

All photos courtesy of Meaghan Orlinski

Jacflash for Men

Jacflash, another super hip Queen St. West designer store adds a new men's line to its already jam-packed roster of exclusive labels for well-dressed men and women.

jac by jacflash, designed with NY designer Ryan Turner, features classic pieces with slim silhouettes and impeccable fit, taking its cues from style icons like James Dean and Marlon Brando. Slim jeans ($230) are made with denim sourced from the oldest denim mill in the US and feature aged brass trimmings. Gabardine sateen suits with cashmere blend ($525) and cowhide leather motorcycle jackets ($735) are sure to tranform any working man with cash into a rebel.

ALSO for women: new lines exclusive to jacflash include: Ideeen, Cloak and Dagger, Le Mont Saint Michel, Madè, and Sea. Also stocked include Alice + Olivia, Operations, Transit, EVER, Susana Monaco, Won Hundred, Lorick, CP SHADES, A-Lawless, Religion, Corpus, MYNK and Christopher Deane.

jacflash, 1036 Queen Street West

Essential Style: Cuff Wear

by Daniel Wilson

Once upon a time men dressed up and putting on a pair of cuff links would be as natural as putting on socks when getting dressed. Then came Casual Fridays. North American men began going to work looking like out of work golf caddies in baggy khakis and corporate freebie polo shirts. Slob became acceptable and we entered the dark ages of mens dressing.

But now there is a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel as men have discovered the mirror and the accessory. Bay Street is belting out its demands; if our female coworkers can have fun getting dressed, why can’t we? Why do they get the great jewellery and this seasons 'It Bag' while we’re left with festive holiday neckties?

Enter Chris Zownir, a former Bay Street Boy himself, as its knight in armor, a champion in the fight against Bay Street Blah and his company Cuffwear.

“The Bay Street uniform is still pretty standard,” says Chris, “but cuff links give men a chance to be unique. Its something fun.”

And his designs are fun. With images like martinis, bulls and bears, buy and sell signs and Bond girl-esq ladies, Cuffwear offers men myriad chances to wear their mood, if not their heart, on their sleeve.

At $65-90, Chris’ cuff links are priced low to inspire creativity. You can own several pairs for different moods or mix and match, “and if you are staggering home in the morning,” says Chris, “ and realize you lost one you haven’t ruined a several hundred dollar investment from Tiffany’s”

Inspiration comes from the fashion in the 60s TV show Mad Men, but its not just the clothes. “Maybe, just maybe,” says Chris, “if men return to more traditional fashions and style elements they might return to traditional manners. Opening the door for other people and just general politeness.”

Stylish men, polite or otherwise, can find Cuffwear at Rolo, Gotstyle, The Coop and Rego all in Toronto or online at cuffwear.com.

Other places for Cufflinks in Toronto:
Green Shag, 670 Queen Street West
Courage my Love, 14 Kensington Ave.
Barbie's Basement Jewellery offers custom cufflinks
www.linkyourshirt.com

FOX in Canada

FOX Clothing is the latest clothing company making its way through the world. FOX is to Israel what Zara is to Spain or the Gap to America. All companies produce mass quantities of clothing and are available around the world.

In the past few years, FOXs colorful, trendy and youthful clothing has become available in numerous countries including Italy, Romania, China, Singapore and most recently Canada.

Last month, the company graciously hosted a media/launch event at the pricey Spoke Club where Daniel got a sneak peak of the Fall/Winter line that will be available at a mall near you:

by Daniel Wilson
Recently I arrived at the gorgeous Spoke Club where TFI blogger and part-time PR gal Carolyn Rohaly played the consummate and elegant hostess for the launch of Fox in Canada. The Israeli based basics line has finally tapped into the Canadian market for Fall 08.

Fox Canada’s three new locations in Fairview Mall, Brampton and Vaughan are sure to be a one stop shopping destination for the 905 guys and galls getting ready for a night out in the entertainment district. The preppy-yet-funky easy wearing classics such as hoodies, shirt dresses, polos and blazers are simple, affordable and will look great in the clubs.

Fox put on a playful fashion show with their brand ambassadors who were mostly sexy and stylish with the exception of one squinting, oddly booted boy who seemed to need the spotlight shined on him to physically sustain himself through osmosis. The other models, however, danced and cavorted across the stage popping their collars and mock stripping each other in a convincing display of stylish irreverence.

Fox Canada now has stores open in Vaughan Mills, Bramalea City Center and Fairview Mall. Their collection includes clothing for guys, galls, kids and babies.

Canada's Adidas AZX Collaborations

For its latest big design collaboration - the AZX Project, Adidas has linked up with 24 of the world's most popular sneaker shops to create and design new versions of the 1970s-1980s ZX sneakers series. Each boutique represents a letter of the alphabet, minus the x and z.

L is for Livestock
Livestock is a popular streetwear retailer with stores in Vancouver and Toronto. Founders Garry Bone and Garret Louie collaborate with designers to create limited number Livestock t's and hoodies. The Livestock AZX sneaker, with its canvas stripes, draws upon rugged military styling and minimalism.

The Goodfoot ZX8000 (G is for Green) is made from sustainable and recyclable materials; and comes with 2 organic tee’s in a natural hemp and a hemp tote bag.

Other shops include Undftd, Alife, DQM, Patta, Major, Bodega, Colette, Huf, and Foot Patrol, to name a few.

Goodfoot Toronto
431 Richmond St. W
(416) 364-0734

Livestock Toronto
116 Spadina Ave. #G1
(416) 360 5483

Andrew Buckler in Toronto

Menswear Rockstar Outfitter Opening in T.O.
By Daniel Wilson

Photos from the Buckler Fall 2008 show

It is only with hopeless inadequacy that I can describe one of the finger foods and the Andrew Buckler store opening bash as potato skins. Tiny fresh new potatoes were cooked to perfection and scooped out to be stuffed with velvety caviar (and quite possibly small pieces of angels) and served to cigarette panted fashionistas screaming niceties at each other of the sounds of electrified rockers Holy Fuck.

It was good that the flat screen behind the bar showed the Buckler runway presentation on loop as the store was too packed to actually see any of the clothes on the racks. The models fit with the labels shank-sharp tattooed image and they oozed enough sex appeal to make me blush. Buckler somehow manages to make preppy staples like plaid button downs and sweater vests scream 'fuck you'! The makeup perfectly stated that either the models did nothing but lie in the sun in Speedos all day, or that they were in need of a good bath. Rather sexy either way.

The Buckler boutique is the first in Canada and is sure to become a destination for stylish boys with money that are bored of Got Style.

Andrew Buckler, 700 Queen Street West

Phil Sparks @ GenArt, NYC

Photos: John Lee, digitalfabrik.ca

Designer Skivvies on Queen West

Almost Naked is a new specialty shop in Toronto offering super hot designer underwear, luxe-loungewear and accessories from European lines Diesel, Energie and Miss Sixty; UK designers Fred & Ginger and Shultz; and even Canadian label Ginch Gonch. They also carry Ed Hardy boxers and briefs and boast the largest Canadian collection of provocative Marlies Dekkers (Netherlands) among others.

The new two-level boutique has an earthy feel with its poly-resin panels with real bamboo branches embedded in them, hardwood and concrete floors and a wooden trough of white stones lining the staircase. Two corner change rooms with mirrors inside offer a private haven for trying on intimates.

Almost Naked, 479 Queen Street West

Holt Renfrew backs unknown T.O. designer

There are fashion designers and then there are people who know the fashion business (occasionally you will find someone who excels in both disciples). Many of the 'designers' I meet in Toronto who are actually making money in the field know the business - and not necessarily fashion but business in general.

This is why it is not overly surprising to learn that leading luxury retailer Holt Renfrew has recently brought in the JUZD Bamboo label (which we first featured here) - a collection of graphic tees made with bamboo.

Designer Jing Liu of JUZD (pronounced “joost”) has no formal training in fashion or design; no work experience in the biz or no art background but has managed to find a niche product that Holt Renfrew is confident will sell.

According to Liu, his success was foreshadowed in feedback from boutiques and consumers, “The fabric’s potential revealed itself when it was shown to boutique sales staff members and stylists. These are the trendsetters – they live and dictate style in our culture. Their excitement at the fabric and graphics really kept the dream, and motivation, alive from the beginning.”

The JUZD collection is scheduled to appear in Holt Renfrew in Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver, and Edmonton as early as next week.

Pride Fashion Faux Pas

Maha & Cristabel rant about What NOT to Wear - including thongs and crocs, at PRIDE in this month's FAB Magazine:

PRIDE FASHION FAUX PAS
Every year we see more and more fashion crimes committed in the name of Pride. With so many offending outfits and atrocious accessories everywhere, who can we depend on to show offenders the true scope of their visual assaults? fab saw a light at the end of the tunnel courtesy of celebrity stylist/scene whore Maha and ultra-fashionista/clubland superhero Christabel who gave us these warnings, musings and suggestions aimed at this year’s top 10 worst Pride outfit choices.

T-shirt troubles for Daniel

Opinion by Daniel Wilson

A t-shirt can be an amazingly sexy garment; James Dean knew that and so did Marlon Brando when he rolled a packet of cigarettes into the arm of his tighty-whitey. Modern day fashion rebels wear t’s featuring v-necks so low you can clearly see where they were only just separated from the umbilical cord despite minus 20 temperatures.

Here are some helpful tips on the wearing of this classic garment in today’s fashion environment. Please note, this is just my humble opinion and you can follow my advice or laugh at it at will.

The standard American Apparel(AA) low cut v-neck is really as low as you need to go guys, proud though you may be of your Nair fetish. Remember, there was once a time when men were proud that their testicles had dropped and hair grew on their chests. They wore clothes with cleavage in order to show off their virility, not their complete lack thereof.

Slogan t’s are not ok. Katharine Hamnett made them ok, and if you have one of hers by all means, wear it (and I will beat you up and take it), but otherwise no. Slogans you think are witty are not; they are as shallow as the fabric they are printed on. Please remember, how can a t-shirt speak to you when there are thousands of them made? (Note, House of Holland is also ok)

Band t-shirts are hard to wear. If you are wearing something with the name or imagery of a hot new band, chances are by the time you’ve washed it you’ll be embarrassed to be seen in it. Vintage band t’s are better, but it’s still a fine line. The Nirvana smiley face t-shirt may either make you look way too ironic, or that you actually live in your parent’s basement. A Nine Inch Nails t-shirt can work as an actual homage, ditto New Order, but it should look like your club-stamp smeared, same sex lover passed out in it a few dozen times while going through a sweaty fit.

AA is a great store to get t-shirt basics as their shirts can be worn on their own or layered under a more interesting garment, but please just one AA item per outfit. I know soft cotton in lovely colours is addictive, but it is not an outfit or a fashion statement. Entire wardrobes wrung from the racks of American Apparel make you look like a pastel, hipster Marc Rothko painting holding a 50.

There really is so much more to say: are metallic’s permitted, what is the rule on holes or stains, V-neck, boat or crew? Oh well, I need to leave some room for people to make mistakes or else what more would I write about?

Favorite Shop in Toronto: Lileo

Lileo is almost a spiritual destination in the city - for spendthrift shoppers, artsy metropolitans and aristocratic fashion fiends who can easily find love and belonging in aisles piled high of exclusive labels, coveted literary collectibles and the latest and greatest in stylish lifestyle finds for men, women and kids.

Co-founded by Syd Beder, a Toronto fashion veteran (most noted for bringing brands like Big Star, Indian Motorcycle and Lululemon to Toronto) and yoga enthusiast, who brought life to Lileo after experiencing his own personal spiritual discovery, this Lileo derives from Galileo (astronomer/scientist) and is fueled by similar notions of light and discovery.

Go to full review here >>

Boy's Club

There is something for every man in this spring's menswear collections. Rudsak's Serengetti line is perfect for men with more conservative taste. The collection offers timeless, classic style in a restrained palette. Chatto is a little more adventurous, with unusual textile and pattern combinations, and whimsical accent colours. By far the most creative mens' line comes from Bustle, who plays with Ascot refinement and gives it a street edge.

On the whole, it does seem that Toronto men are beginning have a little more fun with style. Many writers remarked that more men than women were among the best dressed at Fashion Week.

Photos by Christina Pal