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Toronto Alternative Fashion Week
by Irene Stickney, fashion journalist, fashion designer and NOW
competition finalist
Ah,
[FAT] and fashion week are finally over! It’’s always
like a glamorous walk through the social pages of Harpers Bazaar
while it lasts, but once it’s done - I just want to sit down,
walk around the house in my underpants and drink beer. It must be
all that air kissing.
On top of reporting for Torontostreetfashion.com
this year, I was also designing a five-piece collection for [FAT]
inspired by the Labyrinth of the Minotaur; plus a pleated Aphrodite
styled newspaper dress for the NOW designer challenge. Check out
the photo of my dress in NOW
this week.
FLASH Fashion Shows Around Town
So last night I sat down, opened a Bud and watched
Southpark for the first time in over a month. But what a month!
Impromptu Flash Fashion Shows dropped down all over the city last
Saturday as a pre-promotion for FAT, organized by my friend and
party promoter Phil Azer. I’m quite fond of the idea of models
popping out of nowhere and surprising innocent passersby, turning
a boring walk down Queen St. into a front row seat at a fashion
show, although it smacked a bit of “conceptual performance
art” which always reminds me of a first year OCAD student
project.
Hidden
in an unmarked white van, models sporting the designs of Knowdresscode,
Artifice, Ali Head, Reset and Topshelf Motherfucker leapt
onto the street turning heads all along Queen W. The shows were
all caught on film (or is it pixels now?) by notorious and talented
Toronto photographer Zaiden. His girlfriend, makeup
artist Melissa from Stellar Designz styled the shows. Krys Lerner
was also on hand shooting the crowd for torontostreetfashion.com
There was drama at the last meeting when Zaiden
recommended getting a city permit to shoot outside. Apparently there
are some hefty fines for shooting without one, but no one wanted
to shell out the cash, of course. Phil asked me what I thought,
and I was reminded of my hilarious summer job as a Rollerbabe. “They
always asked us for our permit," I told him "and we just
told them it was with our supervisor in a parking lot near by. Not
one of them ever followed up on it, ever." Finally they went
ahead without one, and no one was the wiser.
Speaking of Zaiden, he was backstage on set shooting
Jasper Garvida’s black and white layered
smock dress Tuesday night, when I arrived with an armful of clothing.
Jasper was one of the evenings few imports, arriving from London
and impressing the crowd with his avant-garde take on Peruvian handicrafts
and the 1920’s. In between shots, I introduced Zaiden and
Rachel. They hit it off and he even promised us some shots for the
cover page next month. Jasper is a Toronto native who attended IAD
here in the nineties. He left for Central St. Martins six years
ago and has since packed more than 30 runway shows under his belt
including London's Alternative Fashion Week, the amusingly named
"FUK".
Flash Fashion Shows were followed by FAT, L’Oreal
Fashion Week, the NOW competition - plus Sonja and Rachel covered
Fashion Week for Canada.com this season! Is it just me, or does
fashion in Toronto seem like it’s really taking off right
now? And not to brag - but Torontostreetfashion has been there covering
it the whole time!
Labyrinth
of the Minotaur Collection
So the party was set to begin for me on Tuesday
- that’s the night my clothes were showing at [FAT]. But not
until I finished the sew-a-thon that always precipitates finishing
a collection. Cutting my classes for the day, I added chains to
my spatter paint bubble skirt, then sewed zippers, buttonholes and
bias binding on the rest of my clothes. The number one rule of being
a designer is things will always take three times as long as you
think they will. So up I got at the crack of dawn after two hours
of sleep to blowdry my skirt (you can see Sonja in it on the fashion
week video at www.canada.com).
It was still wet from the night before, as I had moistened the whole
thing with a spritzer before painting it so the drips would run
better. That done, I used gold chains for the suspenders and huge
gold rings to attach them. It loved it!
Backstage was a riot of naked girls in feathered
masks trying heroically to squeeze themselves into size 0 dresses
(they should be outlawed here, too), empty Evian bottles, stacks
of pizza and racks upon racks of clothes. My first model must have
been six feet. She had a shaved undercut and looked vaguely eastern
European. I’m glad to see the rest of the world is in love
with Russians now, as I’ve always been. I put her in a black
‘Snow White’ babydoll dress, and her legs went all the
way up to my chest.
Once my clothes were safely backstage, I could
relax and enjoy the night. My lovely friend Megan Orlinski, head
volunteer organizer at [FAT] was working behind the bar. She slipped
me a drink because I looked so nervous, that beautiful woman! If
you’ve ever wondered why designers always seem to become alcoholics....
here’s your answer. And if you ever need anything organized
- Megan is the woman for the job. She was the driving force behind
the LEAP design challenge in September, and helped coordinate the
Toronto Wildlife Show last May.
The Fermenting Cellar is dim and haunted looking
and has the aura of an 11th century dungeon. Not at all where you’d
expect a fashion show to be held, and all the more charming because
of it.
The walls are covered in art, and the NOW dresses are displayed
on judies on the other side of the room. I carefully inspect the
competition!
My dreams of becoming a television broadcaster
were laid to rest for good, when Kalen Hayman of UATV.com interviewed
me and I proceeded to use the always versatile adjective ‘Fuck’
a grand total of seven times in one interview, while holding a cupcake
in either hand. But I managed to gather my wits enough to explain
why FAT was such a breath of fresh air right now for Toronto Fashion.
[FAT]
vs. L'Oreal Fashion Week
And it was, of course the question on everyone’s
lips: Why was FAT run the same week as L’Oreal? Was it a direct
challenge to Robin Kay to be more inclusive in her production of
Toronto Fashion Week? She has certainly made giant leaps from last
year, by including an ‘indie designers’ day, and by
holding a students forum where eight students from each fashion
school in Toronto are invited to have their say.
But is FAT really competition for L’Oreal?
In a word - No. First of all - they cater to totally different audiences.
L’Oreal is essentially a trade show, whereas FAT deals with
ideas rather than sales. FAT doesn’t even bother with a media
tent - something that L’Oreal does extremely well. (Although
really - should free makeup and drinks be the only reason people
want to go see a fashion show? Shouldn’t the clothes be the
main event, not the freebees?)
Also - the fact that FAT was packed to capacity
every night this week speaks volumes about the need in Toronto for
an outlet for underground designers. They don’t get the same
kind of support that musicians do with NXNE or Canadian Music Week,
nor do they get covered by NOW or Eye as much as bands do. True
- FAT director Vanja Vasic was in My Style this week - but why not
the cover? And does Eye even have a fashion section? Obviously L’Oreal
can’t support the same kind of creativity that FAT can - it’s
trying to sell clothes.
What FAT does do well is support the growth of
ideas, which is ultimately what Toronto needs right now, not more
buyers. As Jeremy Laing said in his to-the-point speech at Mass
Exodus this year “Toronto doesn’t need to try and be
New York. We have a world class fashion week 8 hours away.”
And I agree. Toronto should let ideas, vision and creativity be
our stock-in-trade. We're never going to be New York. What we need
are people who aren’t afraid to set trends rather than follow
them.
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