Toronto L'Oreal Fashion Week
Spring 2006
Designers and Fashion Shows
Irene Stickney - Saltwater Clothing
Photo credit: James McFaull
Paul Hardy: Poetry in Motion
Gray
can sometimes be wishy-washy. It is the colour of unresolved mysteries,
of foggy Irish cliffs and smokey bar rooms. It is neither black nor white
- it’s in-between. Not a yes or a no but a maybe. And perhaps this
was Paul Hardy's intention in sending model after model down the runway
in the palest ash and delicate oyster grays, draped in soft cotton gauze
and slouchy jersey. Perhaps Hardy's Spring 2006 collection, entitled ‘The
Emancipation of the Icelandic Ghost Pirates’ was so good because
he risked saying ‘maybe’. Every outfit was a suggestion rather
than a statement, with sleeves falling gracefully off of shoulders and
oversized hats which looked about to topple off at any moment. Never mind
the gimmicky pirate eye patches. It was more about what had just happened
- or what might happen than anything we could see. Which of course, piques
the imagination all the more.
Not
that all that gray got boring - not by a long shot. Keeping with the season's
trend towards mixing minimalism with couture-like embellishment, Hardy
balanced his rainy-day palette with texture and form. Islet lace, fur
capelets, metallic brocades and for a dress near the finish, a sweeping
gray skirt gathered into tiers of pleated jersey gave depth to the neutral
colours, which served as simply a backdrop to all the detailing. Silhouettes
were long legged and relaxed, with plenty of wraps and ties with which
to gather, slouch and blouse clothing according to the wearers mood, and
the occasional body-hugging bustier broke up the loose jackets and tops.
For a designer who started his career with comparisons
to Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney, there was considerable pressure that
this season live up to to the hype. As the headliner for opening night
at Toronto Fashion Week, Hardy more than stepped up to the challenge,
delivering a collection which at times could have been called poetry in
motion. Hardy is definitely a designer to watch, and although romantic
pirates may not be for everyone, there are after all, many shades of gray.



Next: Beckerman's dreamy
"Diary of a Dali Girl" paints a colorful picture