Mitra Ghavamian’s Alternative Bridal Wear at [FAT]

The mayhem that is Alternative Fashion Week a.k.a. [FAT] landed on 99 Sudbury St. last week swirling together 4 days of music, film, fun and especially fashion. Each day featured a different theme including Fashion Narratives, which explored mythological and theatrical clothing; Natural Currencies featuring more ecofriendly and sustainable creations; Fashion/ Unfashion which juxtaposed commercial and nonconformist gear; and Dress Codes which had collections with subculture, political and cultural groups. In true Alternative Fashion style many of the models on the catwalk were not professionals and were various weights, cultural backgrounds and heights, adding a fierce dimension to the pieces and representing the diversity of our planet.

Needless to say, the fashion was furious! One of my favorite lines was a bridal collection titled Mitra by Mitra Ghavamian. Though the Royal Wedding did fall on the day of Mitra’s showing at [FAT], her dresses were a far cry from conservative, but still encapsulated the austere beauty of the infamous white dress. With a 20 year background in theatre and film costume design it is no wonder. Pieces mashed classic bridal wear with cultural detailing, from various different countries resulting in glamorously, stunning pieces that were like works of art.

While there are a bajillion wedding dresses on the market Mitra Ghavamian’s ethereal artistic creations definitely stand out from the norm offering something special and different for the bride who wants something different.

DAY 4 – DRESS CODES – FRI APRIL 29 / 11
“The theme explores work that is influenced by different cultural groups, subcultures, demographics,
politics, religion, sex and gender identities. The night will showcases designers and artists whose
work looks at the social significance of clothing and who we are, defined by what we wear.”

If you’ve ever wondered where wacky fashion rules come from, you’re not alone.  The last night of [FAT] is dedicated to dress codes – breaking them like a Hell’s Angels’ Harley in a china shop, of course!

Miller Monroe’s debut collection, entitled ‘WO*MAN’ is about being a sexy, confident MAN. “We’re one of the few cultures where men have not embraced sarongs, skirts, lungi, dhoti, lava lava, hakama or whatever you want to call them – men in other cultures have been able to maintain a connection to this comfortable and fashionable piece for centuries.”

Miller Monroe (Louie Manzo & Baby Steinberg) premiere their Orwellian film, which presents a full frontal attack on boredom, and turns fascist aesthetics on its’ head with a flick of the wrist.  The manifesto is clear – real men wear whatever the hell they want, and the ladies are more than pleased to see the WO*MAN army take to the runway.  The models are bare-chested, sporting skateboards, Chucks, and snug ankle length skirts – the testosterone is palpable and comes off the runway in waves.  For those with exceptional confidence, MM offers suits in pinstriped wool – code for “Do not f… with me.”  Kallvis Chen (Human Nature) also offers skirts for men in aubergine and wolf grey, the collection is restrained and mature, and accessorized with Kyle Osnack’s lovely Romanesque gold chains.

The much anticipated House of Gaudet is Shawn Venasse’s tragic narrative of silent, bone-crushing bleakness camouflaged by beauty and style.  In one astonishing scene the model’s naked body is painted in replica of the felted coat she slips on.  The film expertly captures the gorgeous textures and colours of Norm and Gio Gaudet’s coveted couture.

The evening closes with a spectacle by IMAGOZINE – think Alice in Acidland, mix in the royal wedding, and you’ve got the picture.  Red-coated Beefeaters are flanked by Anubi (the Egyptian god of the afterlife), and royal minions are dressed in Venetian masques.  [FAT]’s fashion crime spree closes with men silently wondering if they have the cojones to pull off a skirt, and women fantasizing about slipping into a Gaudet coat, (and men in skirts).  I end the night by slipping into a hot bath and dreaming of a fashion revolution.

PS: Billie Mintz has generously offered to share the link to his riveting video of fashion legend Pat McDonagh.  https://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fvimeo.com%2F22911629&h=a39e5Pv4CyhhAhdsxb6TnSun_CQ

Photography by Paul Sergent@ digitalfabrik.ca

FASHION/UNFASHION – THURS, APRIL 28,2011
“The night battles between two opposing directions in art, performance, design and music: the commercial versus the rebellious. The night explores the ever-changing cycle of trends inherent in fashion, highlighting the contradictory and contrasting concepts of what’s in vogue.”

While monarchists donned fascinators in anticipation of a fairytale wedding, [FAT] fans encountered visions of a dystopian future. (Closer to the reality of scandals and tears that have plagued royal couples of late.  I’m not bitter, I’m just awake!)

Deconstructivist videos are paired with piercing atonal music, as we are riveted by the kaleidoscopic work of Janus A Argjahovda from Denmark.  The films, like most of the collections are stark, with minimalist atomic palettes.

Rachel Sin with Gardé Del Avante accessories


Saki

Jewellery designers Thad and Naanafya (Gardé Del Avante) gild Rachel Sin’s line with massive silver feather rings, chained and feathered epaulets, and necklace earrings.  For years we have been calling our favourite model Rashel, but a new side is revealed as she premieres her work as a designer with her African name, Saki.  Saki gracefully references her Sudanese background with Kente cloth which she gives new life with expert re-interpretation of African prints.  Styled with bright plastic bracelets and party ‘till you drop sunglasses, the disco vibe is fearless and fresh, and brings cheers from the crowds.

Breeyn McCarney shocks the crowd into awed silence as models that look as if Gaultier’s paper doilies have come to life as paper dolls, creep along the runway.  Heidi Ackerman attacks a fairly subdued collection with massively gorgeous appendages made of wood veneer, and Anastasia Lomonova (Montreal) has the Egyptian mummy/bank robber look all wrapped up with head to toe body stockings.

The Bored Collective jumpstarts the show with a striptease.  As the performer keeps on peeling, she discards everything including her wig and mask, revealing a hideous skull glowering on a naked body covered in blood red paint.  Uta Bekaia (New York) celebrates the high drama of glam rock with finned leggings, futuristic shoulders and a crucified Spiderman perched on a jewel encrusted denim jacket.  The Haphazard show features models tied up in their own clothes and to each other, with sleeves sewn into leggings, and House of Etiquette breathes new life into fetish fantasies with Vaseline-slick latex hand printed with whimsical floral patterns.

A boldly sensual night has obviously made an impact with the crowd, but I am in a committed relationship with my pillow.  Tonight is your last night to get your [FAT] on – you’ll be kicking yourself if you miss it.

99 Sudbury buzzes like a playground for children of a creative revolution.  Designers flaunt their wares, filmmakers tell tales of talking back to formidable divas, and crowds sip a Corona while taking in the shows (we’re not allowed to drink in the runway room at LG).  We’re all drunk with joy, and kind of in love with fashion, life, and each other.  No, it’s not what you think – it’s [FAT].  (Unless someone slipped something into my drink).

Tonight’s designers are committed to principles of sustainable design, a reminder that fashion needs to slow down.  The idea is to reduce consumption by thoughtfully selecting quality garments with staying power – and trending through accessories instead of cheap, throw-away clothes that (let’s be honest) look like it.

The night begins with a rockin’ performance by Catalyst Dance Company who mash Afro-Brazilian and Hawaiian grooves into a contemporary vibe.  The dance starts with  typically mellow capoeira which rapidly turns into jaw-dropping acrobatics and lightening-bolt roundhouse kicks flying inches away from our stilettos.  Yikes!  And YUM!

In from Berlin – Julia Knupfer’s organic collection

One of the best things to come out of the sustainable design movement is new lush fabrics like bamboo –so soft they make cashmere feel like mohair.  It’s no surprise that the Loft 604 designer is a woman – her menswear collection clings to all the right places with fabrics that beg to be snuggled up to.  Thanks to the Goethe Institute for flying Julia Knupfer in from Berlin.  Her bold, sculptural knits leave a lot more breathing (and peeping) room than the usual fisherman’s sweater.  And you may as well book in for season tickets at the Canadian Opera Company if you’re investing in garments from Mackenzie Jones!  The room is literally left gasping from heartbreaking beautiful designs accessorized with feathered wing epaulets, rams horn’s and antlers.  Stunning!

Calgary’s Mackenzie Jones’ models in her ‘Fatal Seduction’ collection of silk and satins

99 Sudbury – where you’ll find all the fun and fantasy of [FAT] tonight.

www.getfat.ca

*Photos by John Lee & Geoff Fitzgerald @ digitalfabrik.ca

With NOW Magazine’s disappearing act at City Hall and small businesses forced to pay thousands of dollars to remove “graffiti” (commissioned murals), there’s a feeling that freedom of speech, arts and culture are under attack in Toronto.

Vanja Vasic’s [FAT]  reminds us that creative culture is a force to be reckoned with.  The new venue for the 2011 edition of [FAT] is an ultra-luxe former warehouse on Sudbury Street, with lots of lounge space much appreciated by celebrities that were seen like Drake, Shenae Grimes & Daniel De Santo and glamour girls teetering on Fendis that offer as much support as stiletto flip-flops.

Performance: Anna J. MacIntyre “The Carnie”

Performance and installations are wild, wacky and a little disturbing – like a nudie-man rolling around in bedclothes and a multi-masked carnival figure sporting a kinetic Ferris wheel headpiece.   HDTVs line the runway room for personal viewings of [FAT]’s International Fashion on Film Festival, in case you missed the screening during runway shows or need an encore of brilliant films like Billie Mintz’ documentary on Pat McDonagh. The work reveals a strikingly honest portrait of the Canadian icon, as girls shop with murmured adoration in her beautiful boutique at Wellington and Spadina.

Lubica’s (a Ryerson grad now in Jamaica) bright and vibrant fashions

[FAT] is renowned as an incubator for artists who explore their vision without the constraints of corporate or market demands, and opening night is no exception.  Jamaican designer Lubica is at her best when she relaxes into sultry metallics and bold florals, and Belinda Visag (Mexico City) masterfully balances Edwardian motifs with modern nuances, playfully using houndstooth as an accent.  Zanete Auzina (Latvia) mixes Bay Street wool with feather-cut tulle to create gowns of ethereal beauty.  Wondering what to wear to a caviar cocktail at the Hermitage before a night at the Bolshoi?  Catherine Cichy’s evening collection (shown above) is full on Imperial Russian, complete with a ballerina en pointe, and enough black to mourn a Tzar.

Zanete Auzina

The night closed with an aerialist plunging from the ceiling – her landing an inch above the stage, and my heart landing on the other side of my ribs.  The rain has stopped – but the storm of the season is at 99 Sudbury – grab an umbrella and get [FAT].

www.getfat.ca

*Photos by Geoff Fitzgerald @ digitalfabrik.ca

APRIL 26 –29 / 2011
TORONTO ALTERNATIVE ARTS AND FASHION WEEK /11
99 SUDBURY STREET
$30 at the door

DAY 2 – NATURAL CURRENCIES – WED APRIL 27, 2011

The night exhibits the renewing power of nature, sustainability and the use of natural elements as a dominant influence in creating design and art. The night explores nature and sustainability as a leading creative approach to art and design practices.

MUSIC
6:00 DJ DANIEL WILSON

PERFORMANCE
7:00 EARTH – CATALYST DANCE COMPANY

FASHION ON FILM IFFF Series
7:10 THE SCHEMATICS OF EVOLUTION – SAI SIVANESAN

RUNWAY – Presented by Fashion Takes Action
7:15 LOFT 604
JOOL
KALI
WORTH BY DAVID C. WIGLEY

MUSIC
8:00 DJ DANIEL WILSON
8:15 BABALAO STEREO CLUB

FASHION ON FILM IFFF Series
8:55 ZORAN DOBRIC – DIRECTED BY KEVIN CANERS

RUNWAY
9:00 ICA WATERMELON BY JULIA KNÜPFER (Berlin, Germany)
Presented by Goethe-Institut
COLLEEN BOOTH
NETTIE BLANCHE
THE MAKE DEN

MUSIC
9:45 DJ DANIEL WILSON
10:00 GIRL

RUNWAY
10:30 MACKENZIE JONES (Calgary, AB)
RYERSON UNIVERSITY
LITTLE.WHITE.DRESS
ALEKSANDRA BIBIC

PHOTOGRAPHY / VIDEO SCREENINGS ONGOING
UNTITLED – CESAR FORERO
UNDERWATER – MEAGHAN OGILVIE
BOTANICAL ART – MLADEN TUSUP (Belgrade, Serbia)
WEEDROBES – NICOLE DEXTRAS
ICESHIFTS – NICOLE DEXTRAS
STITCHING THE SNOW – VESSNA PERUNOVICH

Venasse and Vasic Get The Party Started Before [FAT] April 26-29, 2011

Top: Organizers Vessna Perunovich and Boja Vasnic | Middle: Shawn Venasse and Sonja Andic | [FAT] DJ Daniel Wilson

No red carpet hinted that the ultra-exclusive opening party for Toronto’s Alternative Arts & Fashion Week [FAT] was happening on a quiet tree-lined street, but those in the know – designers, buyers, photographers and models, crowded into the beautiful Edwardian home to fling their bling and flash their most sultry smiles.

Every great cultural movement has a great patron at its heart, and the party was hosted by Toronto’s own Medici – Shawn Venasse.  Like Gertrude Stein re-incarnated with kindness and style, Venasse has supported some of Canada’s most renowned designers, including Gaudet, whose fashion on film will open [FAT] and has been the buzz of fashion circles for weeks.  Louie Manzo has teamed up with Brazilian Baby Steinberg to shake Toronto men out of their style slumber with gender-bending basics that will soon stock the shelves of every metro-sexual closet.  [FAT] founder Vanja Vasic looked cool as Marlene Deitrich while Canada’s emerging StyleStars tried not to flutter around her – hard to do with a lady that has launched and supported the sky-rocketing careers of many.

There’s only one day until the big event, so plan your outfits, stock up on your sleep, and get ready to get [FAT]!

Photos by photographer William “ZAIDEN” Chrysler  (pictured top) http://www.zaiden.com

April 26-April 29, 2011
99 Sudbury Street, Toronto
6 pm – Midnight

www.getfat.ca